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Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Touring London: Rock, Plays and the Queen





After returning from Wales we had four days to explore London, not nearly enough time to do the city justice but, just enough time for us, since I feel we were ready to go home by Monday. We started Saturday off by just relaxing and doing some retail therapy that took us from Oxford Street down to Trafalgar Square and back up around to Covenant Garden where we stopped for the best fish and chips in London, according to my friend Ashley, at Rock and Sole, I have to say it was some of the best fish and chips I’ve had but my mom thinks she had better at Loch Ness (you guys will have to argue that one out yourselves). I was also shocked to order the Budvair or Chezh version of Budweiser, tasted just like regular Bud. After our shopping we wondered down to the Themes, Westminster Abbey, Parliament and Big Ben, since I’ve seen them as a kid we just looked at them from outside as neither one of us really wanted to stand in the long lines to enter. Then we walked from Westminster to Victoria and hopped on the tube out to Seven Sisters area and out to Yum Yum, a terrific Thai restaurant in an old Georgian house or Hospital (we heard both tales, but couldn’t decipher which one from the outside).

Sunday was all about reliving the birth, life and death (of many rockers) on a rock tour through London. The guide was good (he was an American from Chicago who wished he had lived in the 60’s to experience the scene) but was very knowledgeable and entertaining. I didn’t realize so much of the Rock originated in London and so many of the key players also died in London, hard times playing music, drinking and doing drugs. We started off at Trident Studios on Abbey Court, then headed to Denmark Street, also known as Tin pan Alley or publishing row back in the day, we drove through Camden, where the music scene is now, stopped by Britannia Row where Pink Floyd has office across from the school where they borrowed the children for the song ‘Brick in the Wall’, headed up one of the only hills in London to the Alexandra Palace where Pink Floyd held the 14 hour Technicolor dream concert (the building is vacant now but, there are plans to turn it back into a concert hall), next it was off to tea at the Clissoled Arms, the restaurant across the street from the original house of the Kinks and the first place they ever played, next it was off to Abbey Road to recreate a Beetles album cover and see Abbey Recording Studios, and finally 34 Montagu Street home to Ringo Starr (or used to be), all before pausing for lunch, whew! I think we learned about 5 deaths before lunch and there were more to follow after, I really don’t understand the drug use of the 60’s and 70’s.

After lunch it was back on the Rock bus and off to American Disaster, now called the Hard Rock CafĂ©, the only place in London in 1971 that served burgers and beer together, the tale goes that American Disaster became the Hard Rock as we know it today because Eric Clapton loved the place so much he wanted to save a table so he donated a guitar to be hung above his table and then Pete Townsend did the same and now you have restaurants all over the world with rock memorabilia. Next we saw the pub Horse and Groom on Beetley, a back alley pub so obscure it’s not open on the weekends, and a frequent watering hole of the Beetles. Next it was off to Chelsea and King’s Road, famous in the 60’s and 70’s for small boutiques and the place where Live Aid started and the story of the Sex Pistols (who only lasted 18months) as a band Vivian Westwood’s husband set up because he didn’t like the rock scene and said any band would be popular even if they couldn’t play a note, I guess he was kind of right. After King’s Road it was a drive up along the river Themes to see the Battersea Power Station, the main art in Pink Floyd’s Animals album cover, supposedly the photographer didn’t like photo shop so they made a balloon pig and tied it to the stacks for the shot, well sometime during photographing the pig got loose and floated up into Heathrow’s airspace, the air traffic control though the reports from their pilots about a flying pig were bogus but, it was the first air traffic alert for a floating pig; I guess hell froze over that day, since the pig was flying, wish I could have been there to ski (okay, okay, bad joke). We also stopped at Bill Wyman’s Sticky Fingers Restaurant and Bar, he is a Rolling Stone, saw the location of Island Records, the location of the Beetle’s last concert which happened on a roof on Savile Road, and we saw the death place of Jimi Hendrix, who actually died on his way to hospital because the paramedics sat the stretcher upright and left him unattended and unconscious on a 2 minute ride to the hospital, he was dead on arrival from chocking on vomit, sad negligence, or so the story goes. It was very tragic to lose Jimi, he was such a talented artist, in fact so talented that the London National Heritage committee has a plaque outside his old home commemorating him, he is the only singer/artist to have a plaque and he’s American, crazy. They are hoping to get a George Harrison plaque soon, but that’s under petition now. So much information on a tour, I couldn’t jot it all down, so this was just a quick synopsis.

Monday it was back on the ground attacking the other London tourist sites. We started out walking past the Tower of London down to the Tower Bridge and across the other side of the Themes up to the London Bridge and finally taking the tube to King’s Cross station where we promptly headed to the rail lines to get a photo of platform 9 ¾ from the Harry Potter films, dorky, I know, but I just had to get a photo running with my trolley at the wall. That night we headed to Covenant Gardens again to have a great pre-theatre meal at an Indonesian restaurant before heading out to see the musical Chicago. The musical was good, but a bit of a letdown, since the Roxy on our night was brunette and she is supposed to be blonde! Oh well, still a great musical and a fun night.

Tuesday we got up early and headed to the opening day of the state rooms at Buckingham Palace, when the Queen is away, the common folk get to pay to see her digs, and pretend to be a royal guest. I have to say for all the castles, abbeys, palaces that I’ve seen on this trip, and there were many, Buckingham Palace was worth it, they had a phenomenal audio guide tour through the state rooms and gorgeous furnishings inside. We even got to have tea and scones on the back lawn of the Palace, such royalty indeed. As a note the state rooms are only open one month each summer when the Queen is away at her summer house in Scotland, so not many people even get the chance to see them, but if you are ever in London in August I highly recommend, we got lucky, because the Queen left a week early so we were fortunate to see them in July. After the Palace we walked through St. James’ Park to the Horse Guards, the funny suited guards you can take photos with and try to make them laugh or smile (they’re not supposed to, looks like a horrible position having to stand still for so long while people poke fun at you to get you to  falter). That evening we met up with family for a wonderful English dinner complete with Pimm’s, Banger’s and Mash and Plum Pie Crumble. It was fun to catch up with family that lives so far away who you haven’t seen in years, and yet feel like you could catch up quickly on everything. It was the perfect ending to our month long trip around the UK, ending with family and delicious traditional food.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Haggis: Welsh Spooning Dragon Explorer




Our Wales tour started out in a claustrophobic mining elevator descending 300meters into a coal mine shaft, what a way to get to know your tour group. The tour of Big Pitt coal mine in Blaenavon was a bit scary but also very funny (with everyone banging their heads on the ceiling) and educational, I could never work in a mine, I would go insane in the dark under the earth. Our next stop was a picnic lunch at a Norman Castle in Cheapstow, yes we were very cheap, but Chepstow means marketplace not cheap as in price. After our lovely picnic it was off to Tintern Abbey in the Wye Valley, an old ruin of an abbey that was made famous from a Wordsworth poem, the best part of that stop was the Welsh cakes our guide Greta bought for us to try. Last stop on day one was Abergavenny at the Black Sheep Backpackers and some karaoke! Since they didn’t have Journey “Don’t Stop Believing” I opted for the second best Johnny Cash “Ring of Fire.” We had many Tom Jones signers as our team competition for the Wales trip was to have one member karaoke a Tom Jones song; it was a classic first night with a new group and definitely helped with the bonding.

 Day two started off with some middle school boy humor by stopping to take photos of the town sign for Three Cocks and Three Cocks Coaching Station, we just never grow up, do we? Then it was off to be academic in Hay-on-Wye, the largest book town in the UK, since I have gotten addicted to the Outlander (or Cross Stitch) series by Diana Gabaldon, I was in no need of a book but enjoyed walking around town. Next stop was Builth Wells to take a photo of the Llewellyn the Last mural, the best part of this was he shoed his horses backwards to confuse the British, unfortunately his horse-shoer was a drunkard and gave his secret away and he lost the battle and his life. The next part of the day was my favorite on the whole trip, we hiked up to Llangollen to see the Dinas Bran Castle ruins and valley below. On the hike up I specifically stated I would fall coming down this hill, since it was rather muddy, and sure enough the rain came out on our decent and I took the short cut fully knowing it was wrong and went down on my butt half way down the hill, it was a more graceful fall according to the viewers, and quite fun in my opinion, felt just like being on a slide. It was so inspirational that one of the tour members wrote her competition Limerick about it:

Ode to Katie, by Robyn
We climbed up the hill to castle ruins – so steep
Saw the town of Llangollen, aqueduct, cows, and sheep
To beat misty rains going down we did run
Katie slipped on smooth grass and slid on her bum
But fortunately for her did not fall in a heap!

Ahh, thanks Robyn, I’ve never had a poem written about me. Our last stop was the middle of nowhere in Cefn Brith at Tyddyn Bychan (little farm in the middle of nowhere) for a BBQ dinner and sleeping. We had a phenomenal BBQ  in the most amazing BBQ hut I have ever seen, I think it could even double as a sauna and steam room because it sure felt like one, but kept the rain out so that’s all that mattered.

Day three it was off to Betws-y-Coed falls then the Ugly House, which was rather cute in many opinions, just a bit odd because it was built with such large and mismatched stones. Next was Snowdonia National Park to hike a bit of Mt. Snowden on the Llybwr Mines Track from Pen y Pass. We were blessed with a beautiful sunny afternoon on our hour long hike to a lake and back, under the shadow of eerie mist covered Mt. Snowden in the distance. For lunch we stopped in Conwy a great river port town built inside the Conwy Castle walls. Here we walked the Castle wall around town, had some fish and chips, ice cream and saw the smallest house, which was pretty damn small, I again would get claustrophobic in there. After Conwy it was off to the Isle of Anglesey to visit Llanfairpwllbwyngyllgogerychwyrnbrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, or The church of Mary in the hollow of the while hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the church of Tysilio by the red cave, or the town with the third longest name in the world, whew. Not much there, except to take photos of the train station sign. After Llan…., you get the picture, it was off to view the Menai Suspension Bridge and Ynys Gored Goch Island, beautiful and then finally to our night destination of the Royal City of Caernarfon, where we got to sleep in a hostel that is inside the castle walls, not inside like a city but that the wall of the castle was one wall of the hostel, exciting, I know. Castle Caerfarfon is the Castle for the Prince of Wales, which is now Prince Charles, but it’s not livable. Now this is the part where some get offended but the British or the Welsh don’t understand American PC rules and think we are crazy but the best pub in town, according to locals was the Black Boy Inn, and they actually had a painting of a Black Boy on the sign, highly offensive to Americans but not so at all to the Brits. And it was the most popular place in town, it’s where most of us got our photos with elderly people and Cecil phone numbers (more tour contest stuff) and it was where some people tried Faggots or Welsh pork meat balls (offensive again, I know, I’m sorry, but just relaying some culture). It was also the place where the group got a nice Welsh boy to write a Welsh saying to me (I guess I was very inspirational to writers on this trip), anyways, I have no idea what it meant in Welch, he translated, but didn’t write it down, so here’s the Welsh version and if you are keen you can translate it yourself, or not, as it might just mean something like I look like a dog! Here goes:

Katie,
Rhy’n hiraethv amdanat am gweddill ry oes, mae ry nghalon yn wag heb y ti yn fy mywyd!
Carind Mawr,
Oddiwrth Guyn

It was the second highlight to the night with laughter, second to the Welsh boy calling our French tour companion Tiger Woods, after that the night was downhill with Tiger jokes and explanations for our French friend (his English was good but not that good, so the explanations, like charades, helped add to the hilarity).

Day four it was up and off to another castle, maybe I should have titled this blog castles? First stop was llyn Padarn Castle and slate quarry, then off to an overlook of Mt. Snowdon because there was a beautiful unobstructed view of the beast on Thursday, followed by a walk in Beddgelert to view Llewellyn’s dog Gelert’s grave, not a Hollywood ending story, so I’m leaving it out. We played a bit of rounders at Harlech Beach, where we saw another castle (overlooking the golf course and beach) and off to Dolgellay for lunch and a birthday cake for a tour member. After lunch we walked off the calories at The Devil’s Bridge and waterfalls near Aberystwyth and finally to the capitol of Wales, Cardiff, for the night.

Friday was a long driving day, we got up to tour Cardiff Castle then it was off to Caerleon to view a Roman amphitheatre and barracks and finally back into England to see a Cotswolds town of Castle Combe and back to London town. I won’t leave you hanging on our competition, my group did not win, our Cecil number didn’t go through, but all was good, everyone still had a great time participating. Ah and if you are wondering about my title, Wales is known for Dragons, and the spoons, well I have a funny story about a fellow trip mate, but the Welsh are known to express their love to another through beautifully carved loves spoons, so romantic.